An Insiders Guide to Burford 'The Gateway to the Cotswolds'

Burford is often referred to as ‘The Gateway to the Cotswolds’, which typically means one thing: it’s bustling with people. And yes, the high street does fill up, particularly in the warmer months. But despite the grand title, what’s surprising is how much of its character it’s managed to hold onto. It still feels like a place for day-to-day living, not just somewhere you might visit or pass through.

Burford is often referred to as ‘The Gateway to the Cotswolds’, which typically means one thing: it’s bustling with people. And yes, the high street does fill up, particularly in the warmer months. But despite the grand title, what’s surprising is how much of its character it’s managed to hold onto. It still feels like a place for day-to-day living, not just somewhere you might visit or pass through. 

Being based just along the road, we tend to roll in with ‘Hutch’ — our handsome old Land Rover — when we have a few hours to enjoy. There are always a few other Defenders around, so we’re very much at home here. Getting a space on the high street always feels like a win, but if not, there’s a free car park along 

If you have a little longer to dwell, I recommend starting the day with a coffee from one of the many independent cafés, then heading towards the bottom of the hill and away from the centre entirely. There are several circular walks nearby where you can take in the most bucolic surroundings, especially early in the morning. Treading through meadows towards Staytes Farm, stepping over stiles, and seeing all the nature that goes with this is a reminder of what makes the Cotswolds special and will make lunchtime all the more rewarding. 

The best places to rest, dine... and people watch 

You are slightly spoilt for choice when it comes to cafés, but Lynwood & Co remains my reliable go-to for coffee and breakfast (I have the loyalty stamps to prove it). It’s also where I pick up my favourite sourdough to use at home. If you can bag a window seat, it’s the perfect spot for people-watching — and Burford really is wonderful for this. You see families reconnecting through exploration, and it’s always a reminder to look at your local towns through tourists’ eyes. Sometimes we forget how lucky we are to be surrounded by such history and beautiful buildings. 

If you want something quieter later on, the riverside garden at Thyme and Lovage is worth seeking out. It’s tucked away from the busy street and has a calming feel, along with afternoon tea boxes you can enjoy there or take away.  

Hidden at the back of the eclectic No.31 shop, filled with unique finds from independent businesses, you’ll find Nutmeg & Thyme – a plant-based café serving gluten, wheat, dairy and egg-free dishes, alongside seriously good salads and a tempting counter of treats. It’s the sort of place where friends gather over whatever is in season. 

For something more rooted in Burford's history, both The Lamb Inn and The Bay Tree are worth knowing about. The Lamb dates back to the 15th century, when it began life as a row of weavers' cottages, and that unhurried, settle-in feeling has never really left. Seasonal menus, local produce, a proper fire and a walled garden make it the kind of place you don't want to leave in a hurry. The Bay Tree, just along Sheep Street, has a similar pull — a Grade II listed building that was once home to the Chief Baron of the Exchequer to Queen Elizabeth I, now a quietly elegant hotel with an AA Rosette restaurant and a bar that feels more like a good country pub than a hotel. Both are wonderful for a longer lunch or a lazy Sunday, and if you're thinking of making a night of it in Burford, either would be a very good reason to stay. 

One of my favourite restaurants is Toro at Highway. It serves small plates, tapasstyle. This taste of Spain in the heart of such a traditional town feels like escapism in the best possible way. The warm brown walls and copper-toned tables feel cocooning, allowing you to forget the world outside. My husband and I usually choose two or three dishes each and take our time. Bambi, our little pup, knows the drill too - we opt for a bench seat so she can curl up beside me, always with a little something waiting for her at the end. 

If you’re leaning towards a longer, summery stop, then BULL, sister to Highway, is worth factoring in as well. I love it year-round, but the terrace is particularly special; it shifts the mood from Highway’s Spanish feel to something more Italian, with pizza, gelato, Aperol Spritz and music drifting through the air – sometimes live, if you’re lucky. For a real treat, book their Wild 11-course dining experience. It exceeds expectations and is so much more than a meal 

Retail Therapy 

You cannot visit Burford without stepping into its independent shops. The lack of chains is one of the most refreshing things about the town, and I love knowing I’ve chosen something a little different, from someone who truly cares about what they sell. 

Casa Francolini at the top of the hill is always one of my first stops. Owner Lisa has curated it in a way that feels personal, taking inspiration from her time in London. You’ll find exceptional brands like Bella Freud on the rails, alongside pieces you might not come across elsewhere. It’s the kind of place where you can take your time, try something unexpected, and leave with a forever favourite.

My inner child can rarely resist Burford Sweet Shop. Rows of jars filled with nostalgia line the shelves, and a scoop of jellybeans is the perfect little pick-me-up. While you’re on that side of the street, it’s worth looking beyond the obvious. The alleyways are where Burford becomes even more interesting, with beautiful properties hiding in plain sight – you just have to peek past the frontages.

Other must-visits include La Bulle for reasonably priced yet stunning leather bags that make the perfect gift, though choosing just one colour can be a challenge. Consider yourself warned! 

In many ways, The Oxford Shirt Company feels like Burford’s flagship shopping experience. It has been a staple here for years and is an enormous treasure trove of quality, timeless pieces. It’s so much more than shirts; I’m convinced there’s not a colour of gents trousers they don’t stock. Old and new sit comfortably alongside each other here, and the antiques shops are well worth taking your time over. From artwork to jewellery, these are the places for truly unique finds. 

Conveniently, Burford is mainly on one street and is an easy place to spend hours and enjoy a different experience every time. So don’t be too surprised if you spot a certain ‘little green Defender’ parked up the next time you visit.